The motto at Kalaheo Steak & Ribs pretty much sums up the menu, as well as the owners’ positive outlook: “It’s all good.”
That’s what Ernie Kanekoa tells folks who ask for dining recommendations. “I tell them, it’s all edible. It’s all good.”
Everybody laughs when he says that, but he really means it. And a recent sampling of the menu at the historic steakhouse, reopened in January 2010 by Kanekoa and Caroline Frederiksen, indicates it’s not an empty promise.
The flavors are as hearty as the serving sizes, a combination of fancy and filling. Take the popular stuffed pork chop ($24). Sounds like down-home cooking, right? Well, this is a bone-in loin chop, filled with Pecorino cheese, olive oil and chili flakes, a delicious concoction that melts out of the thick, flavorful chop. It is served high on a generous serving of square-cut potato hash seasoned with bell peppers and well-drizzled with a Dijon brandy cream sauce, studded with the crunch of sea salt.
The result? Sophisticated but satisfying. Just how they like to do it at Kalaheo Steak & Ribs: fine dining for folks who like their meat and potatoes.
Naturally, the celebrated parts of the menu are the prime rib, filet mignon and rib eye steak, a popular trio Frederiksen described as “phenomenal.”
But other offerings include fresh fish — as the menu explains, “whatever Ernie’s buddies catch” — and less expensive dishes, such as meatloaf and chicken, as well as vegetarian and gluten-free meals.
“We have something for everybody,” Kanekoa promised.
The couple, self-described “partners in life and partners in business,” and their chef adjust the menu every six months or so.
The rib eye ($32) certainly lived up to expectations. Beautifully marbled, it was tender and juicy.
The menu described it as “rubbed with chili flakes and brown sugar, fire grilled to perfection.” My 12-year-old son described it as “brain-meltingly delicious.”
In fact, he spent most of the meal crossing his eyes in delight at some new treat for the tastebuds. The ravings began over the pupus Frederiksen sent to our table.
The Papalani Poke was a spicy, well-balanced blend of fresh ahi, papaya, avocado and red onion with red chili flakes and Salt Pond sea salt, molded into a tall, colorful mound and surrounded by fresh won ton chips.
The pan-fried calamari steak ($13) provided a creamy counterpoint: succulent inside and crunchy outside, crusted with panko and drenched in a garlic-lemon caper cream sauce so delicious, my dining partner was tempted to lick the plate.
That sort of behavior might not raise too many eyebrows at KSR. The decor is rich yet not at all pretentious. The deep red linen tablecloths are covered with thick white butcher paper, perfect for catching some of that hickory-cranberry sauce from the baby back ribs ($13 appetizer; $25 entree).
Another finger-licking favorite — of Kanekoa’s as well as many guests — is the Gourmet Paniolo Burger ($16). The grilled-to-order ground round is piled high with applewood bacon, cheddar, grilled onions and jalapeno, along with thick slices of tomato and lettuce, and doused with KSR ailoi. To round out the “satisfying” column, it is served with well-seasoned waffle fries and several massive onion rings.
The man behind all the amazing flavor pairings is Rufino Ramos. “He’s self-taught but his cooking is outstanding,” Kanekoa said.
The young man approached them after they parted ways with their first chef. They gave Ramos a chance, all those years ago, and haven’t looked back since.
“He’s been a blessing,” Kanekoa said. “He has a gift of flavors.”
Ramos is just one among a hard-working team of 14. “We all do everything,” Frederiksen said of the staff. “Everybody chips in,” from serving to cleaning and washing dishes.
That was apparent during our recent dinner. The service was exceptional, from the friendly hostess to the cheerful busboys who filled (and refilled, and refilled again) my thirsty son’s water glass. All of them, owners included, bustled around the dining room throughout the night, chatting with diners and checking at each table, then quickly bringing whatever was needed, regardless of whose job it might be.
Waitress Chantel Kai enthused that she “loves” working at KSR. “I have two jobs but I enjoy coming here,” she smiled.
“Without our staff, we’d be nothing,” Frederiksen said. “They all have aloha spirit.”
That sort of down-home whimsy is typical of what makes KSR so welcoming.
And more generous flourishes abound. For example, diners who order before 6 p.m. are treated to a complimentary serving of Molokai sweet bread pudding, sweetened with strawberry and Irish cream sauces. Little cowpokes who order off the coloring-page keiki menu (which is named after Frederiksen’s grandchildren) are given their very own KSR flying disc to take home.
Both owners bring impressive credentials in the food industry, off and on Kauai. That expertise must have been critical in reopening KSR. A fixture in Kalaheo for more than 30 years, the restaurant had been closed for a few years and required an extensive renovation before reopening.
“We put a lot into it,” Frederiksen stated firmly.
Instead of hiring a general contractor, Kanekoa and John Medeiros did the carpentry work in the old saloon, which was full of termites.
“They gutted it and redid the whole thing, from top to bottom,” Frederiksen said.
The results are impressive. Despite its plain exterior, Kalaheo Steak & Ribs boasts a cozy, authentically Western interior, crowded with paniolo mementoes like saddles donated by local families. The entry room is home to a 100-year-old pitchfork and an antique teapot. There’s even a genuine wagon wheel, shipped from Texas by a fan of the steakhouse.
The rustic wooden walls throughout the long building that stair-steps up a length of Papalina are lined with enlarged photos from the old days of Kalaheo. Some of the black-and-white scenes of rodeos and ranching life are images from the Kauai Museum, while others were provided by residents.
And the authenticity goes deeper than decor. Many of the pieces are gifts from local families and friends.
“This place belongs to the people of Kalaheo, and we’re just keeping it for them,” Frederiksen said emphatically.
The couple are effusively appreciative of the support they have gotten from locals.
“Without their support, we wouldn’t be here,” Kanekoa said, as Frederiksen nodded.
They believe strongly in giving back, and supporting good causes such as the Stomp Out MS Walk. KSR will host bunco games to raise awareness for the upcoming walk, and serve a special pasta dinner, with all proceeds going to the fundraising effort.
It’s all part of the circle of generosity.
“As you can see, we’ve been blessed,” Kanekoa said as Frederiksen nodded in agreement. “We’ve had our struggles through the years. Now it’s getting better … more and more people are coming.”
That translates into a need for reservations, which are recommended for the restaurant, and required for the saloon on Thursdays and Sundays.
“Between the locals and the snowbirds, we don’t have enough room,” Kanekoa said.
“That’s a good problem to have,” Frederiksen added with a laugh.
Yep. Like they say, it’s all good.
Kalaheo Steak & Ribs, 4444 Papalina Road in Kalaheo, is open Tuesday through Sunday from 4-10 p.m. Happy hour is 4 to 7 p.m. Dinner is served from 5 to 9:30 p.m. For reservations, private parties or catering, call 332-4444. Info: http://kalaheosteakandribs.com
