Shave ice is one of Hawai‘i’s favorite foods. This might be a big claim, considering that it’s basically made of ice and sugar. But imagine a child getting that excited, expectant look in his or her eyes and a smile
Shave ice is one of Hawai‘i’s favorite foods.
This might be a big claim, considering that it’s basically made of ice and sugar.
But imagine a child getting that excited, expectant look in his or her eyes and a smile stretching across his or her face as the sweet syrup is poured gently over a crystalline mound of fluffy ice shavings.
Yes, shave ice is magic.
It’s not a snow cone, because a snow cone’s ice shavings are coarse and the syrup doesn’t quite “stick.” Therein lies the difference.
It’s argued that Aaron Furugen of Kapa‘a makes the best shave ice in the world, and he’s been doing so for 19 years on Kaua‘i. Monday through Friday afternoons from his stand outside Kapa‘a Big Save, Furugen serves hundreds of Kaua‘i kids, parents, grandparents and the occasional visitor. Just look for that now-famous white van and you’re in business.
The most popular flavor? “Strawberry, or ‘rainbow,’ but everybody has their favorite,” he said. Those combos would probably include pineapple, coffee and li hing mui. And mango, bubble gum and lime. But the “traditional” rainbow flavors are strawberry, vanilla and banana.
Anything goes for the same price of $1.50, even a “snow cap” (sweet cream squirted on top over the syrup).
The rainbow of flavors is a big change from the days when there was just strawberry, banana and vanilla.
Furugen even has island flavors like li hing mui, Kona coffee, mango, lilikoi and guava.
Musician “Crazy” Eddie Lopez of Kapahi, known for his quick and funny songs about island living, said shave ice inspires him.
“I go home after having some shave ice. I just get on that guitar and it makes me jam,” he said.
Kenneth Rapozo of Kapahi said when he grew up, Kaua‘i had shave-ice stands at Hamura Saimin and Kapaa School. But they also had other frozen concoctions that were made up by plantation workers and families.
“That’s what Kaua‘i had a lot of — hard ice,” Rapozo said. It’s made with Malolo syrup and water, combined and frozen in the right proportions in plastic or Styrofoam cups so it could be scraped with a spoon, wooden or otherwise.
The recipe for “ice cake” or “guri guri” consists of a blend of Malolo syrup and Carnation cream and water, giving the creamy, frozen candy treat a peachy-red color.
The Keough kids — Penny, Polly, Patty, Preston and Shalia, come down at least once a week. By far, their favorite is coconut and vanilla with a snow cap.
Kate and Michelle Runyon, visiting from Livermore, Calif. to see Grandma Sheila Cooper of Kapa‘a, said they know Aaron from Kapaa Episcopal Church.
“Everyone else has big chunks,” Michelle said while letting watermelon syrup dribble onto her T-shirt. “This is the good stuff. This is the best shave ice in the country.” Liliha Victor, who has been coming to get shave ice since she was a kid, now brings her girls Chia and Chenoa to see Uncle Aaron and share a cup.
Once a week isn’t nearly enough for scuba instructor Greg Aidikoff, who eats two cups of coconut-raspberry shave ice a day, and sends his students from Makua “Tunnels” Beach to do the same.
“If he was here on the weekends, I’d have two then, too,” he said. He claims the ice helps him replenish the liquids he’s lost while diving — though he admits the sheer amount of sugar probably isn’t that healthy.
“But in my opinion, it’s healthier than drinking a Coke.” Then there are the unofficial records for eating shave ice.
“The record is seven in a row. The guy’s name is Tiny, but he’s not tiny,” Furugen joked.
Furugen’s busiest day is Wednesday, “probably because of the farmers’ market,” he said.
The County of Kaua‘i-sponsored Sunshine Market is held from 3 p.m. at the Kapaa New Park.
On Wednesdays, adults make up more than half of his customers. And there are a lot of customers.
On a recent Wednesday, the crowd didn’t let up from 1:30 p.m., when he got there, to quitting time at around 5 p.m. or 6 p.m.
Furugen got started in the shave-ice business fresh out of Cannon’s Business College in Honolulu, where he studied business administration.
“Right after college, I saw someone on O‘ahu making shave ice. I thought it would be fun to do that,” he said.
Nineteen years and thousands of blocks of ice later, he’s quick to point out what makes his shave-ice stand so successful.
“It’s fun doing this. It’s not like work,” he explained.
“I think the reason I’ve stayed so long is the customers. It’s neat watching people grow up, and I can see the happiness on their faces.”
