With the reopening of the Kalalau Trail not too far down the road, it’s a good time to review “The Man Who Walked Backward Down the Na Pali Coast” by Stephen McMillin.
Published in 2006, this story is a remarkable and colorful account of a man’s trek into the paradise that is the Kalalau Valley.
It’s an easy, quick read, despite its 284 pages. Anyone who lives on Kauai, has hiked the Kalalau, gazed upon the Na Pali Coast, should find this an engaging and enlightening tale. The dialogue dives right in in the opening scenes and pulls no punches:
“The little man stopped cold. ‘Around here, there’s a strong climbing vine. Watch what you’re saying when you talk. Kanaka don’t give grace to haoles even if they’re too dumb to know they’re being stupid. Keep your mouth a step behind your brain and you’ll stay around long enough to spend all that money you’re getting paid. Am I am making sense to you?’ The little guy had dressed me down for all occasions.
“Yeah, I guess so. Makes sense to me.” It was impossible to hold my composure under this onslaught.
“Don’t stutter either, son. That and a shell necklace are nothing but a sucker’s badge on this rock. You catch my drift.”
The writing is clean and clear. McMillin does not waste words. He doesn’t overuse adjectives or adverbs. He doesn’t go overboard trying to paint the picture for readers. He lets their minds take them where they want to go as they follow the story — which leads to the Na Pali Coast and a man walking backwards.
So, naturally, one must ask, why is this man walking backwards down the Na Pali Coast?
Simple answer from the man himself:
“There is nothing a person can do these days to be remembered. There are no new mountains to climb. No new oceans to sail. No virgin lands to discover. Every city has its name and every street has a sign. All we can hope for is the strength to never forget. That is why I walk backward. The others are like children. I teach them to find meaning in life. And how never to forget.”
It is easy to forget, isn’t it? The days past by so quickly we can hardly remember what we did yesterday, last weekend or last week. Unless we somehow mark the days, make them memorable, they are gone in a whisper. Suddenly all that’s left is a blank page.
I once ran the Kalalau Trail on the Napali Coast, 22-miles round trip, in and out in a day, with a group of other runners. It was nearly six years ago and what I remember of it now are more of the usual bits and pieces, not the whole experience. I will never, however, forget my first crossing at the crawler’s ledge. The others had long passed it while I fell behind taking pictures. When I came to the ledge, I almost turned back. But I forced myself out, slowly, inching along, and reached the other side.
Funny. On the return, I didn’t hesitate. Walked right up and on that same ledge that earlier that day scared me. You know why? Because I remembered. I remembered I had done it once and could certainly do it again. I would be just fine.
We don’t always need to hurry. Kauai has that right. Slowing down helps us remember. And there are things you need to remember in this life. Running the Kalalau Trail in a day is one. Reading “The Man Who Walked Backward Down the Na Pali Coast” is another.
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Bll Buley, editor-in-chief, can be reached at 245-0457 or bbuley@thegardenisland.com.
