I’ve been a big fan of The Feral Pig since they opened nearly three years ago. My husband and I frequent the Nawiliwili restaurant because of the warm and friendly service, excellent handcrafted cocktails and reasonably priced meals. But things have gotten even better.
About six months ago, the kitchen struggled when their main cook left. Instead of being behind the bar mixing craft cocktails and sharing the history of each drink, co-owner Dave Power stepped into the kitchen to help out. After hiring executive chef Adam Watten about six weeks ago, Power is back behind the bar.
Before opening The Feral Pig, Power was a bartender at Town, an Oahu-based restaurant whose motto is “Local first, organic whenever possible, with aloha always.”
Last August, Power was mentioned in HONOLULU magazine’s article “Movers and Shakers: Hawaii’s Up and Coming Bartenders.” Author Natalie Schack cited him as one of Hawaii’s most influential bartenders. Julian Walstrom, bartender at 12th Ave. Grill, was quoted as saying; “Power showed me that there’s really something more to cocktails than pouring wine and beer, or making a martini.”
Bartender’s Choice ($10 and up) gives Power permission to create a custom cocktail based on the customer’s preferences. He made me a well-balanced cocktail with Jim Beam Double Black whiskey, Hawaii Bitters Co. Kiawe Wood and Pineapple bitters and an orange twist garnish.
About 14 years ago, Jeff Wood, a former chef at the French Laundry in Napa, California, mentored Watten. Later, a job at a James Beard award-winning restaurant in Washington, D.C. inspired a passion for farm-to-table cooking. Recently, Watten was the executive chef at Red Salt in Poipu’s Koa Kea Resort.
Since Watten has been at The Feral Pig, he has hired an experienced kitchen crew, refined cooking techniques and made some changes to the menu. For example, gravy in the Loco Moco is now made from scratch. A stock is made with beef bones from grass-fed cattle raised in Kapaa, which are roasted then simmered overnight.
Chicken wings are brined for two days and then slow-cooked in the oven with olive oil and bay leaves. The wings are cooled in the cooking liquid to infuse them with flavor. The liquid is reused to concentrate flavor and then added as a base in other dishes. Wings are deep-fried to order and tossed in either a jerk sauce or Guinness glaze.
Pastrami Sandwich ($13) starts with beef brisket that’s been dry rubbed and refrigerated for four days. After a quick rinse, it sits in brine for two days. Hickory and mesquite are used to smoke the brisket, which is then braised overnight. Thick slices of rich meat are topped with a slaw of cabbage and SASS (spicy aioli secret sauce). Avocado, sharp cheddar cheese and homemade whole grain mustard are layered on top and the whole is served on toasted rye bread.
Watten gave me an off-the-menu tour of the kind of food that will be added to The Feral Pig’s menu. The Feral Burger ($12) begins with a blend of ground grass-fed Kauai beef and house-smoked pork. Burgers are topped with SASS, caramelized onions, cheddar cheese and house-cured pork belly. It’s served on a taro brioche bun made by Passion Bakery in Kapaa. The decadent bombshell comes with a pile of homemade fries, which take three days to make. Feral Sliders are perfect for those with a lighter appetite.
Panzanella Salad ($12) is loaded with Govinda’s Farm arugula, radish and purple carrots. Kailani Greens, local avocados and Kauai Fresh Farms cherry tomatoes are combined with crunchy cubes of sourdough bread. Everything is tossed with a salsa verde dressing made of Thai basil, arugula, mint, parsley and capers.
Sabre Kennedy, general manager of Garden Island Seafood, was the opening chef for Roy’s Tavern in Princeville. Watten hired him to cook in the Pig’s kitchen and showcase whole fish just caught off Kauai shores.
Specials, such as Pan Seared Uku Collar, are based on what’s in season. The collar is a cut right behind the gills that runs top to bottom. Omega rich flesh, tucked inside the collarbone, easily slips free with a fork. Watten tops the gray snapper with toasted garlic, local honey, homemade guava vinegar and patis sauce.
Power and Kauai-based attorney Scott Kessinger opened The Feral Pig in August 2011. On Aug. 9, the owners will celebrate the restaurant’s three-year anniversary with a special dinner. The evening will showcase locally sourced ingredients and the farmers, ranchers and fishermen who provide them. A multi-course meal will be paired with craft beer and Power’s cocktails. Reservations are required. For more information, call 246-1100.
Marta Lane, a food writer on Kauai since 2010, offers farm to fork food tours and is the author of Tasting Kauai: Restaurants – From Food Trucks to Fine Dining, A Guide to Eating Well on the Garden Island. For more information, visit TastingKauai.com.
