Bob and Jean Bartolo grow 800 cacao trees on 3.5 acres in Kapaa. The couple established Kulana Kokoleka Farm in 2010 and they expect to produce specialty chocolate confections by the spring of 2015. When this happens, they will be
Bob and Jean Bartolo grow 800 cacao trees on 3.5 acres in Kapaa. The couple established Kulana Kokoleka Farm in 2010 and they expect to produce specialty chocolate confections by the spring of 2015. When this happens, they will be the only farm on Kauai to grow, make and sell chocolate.
“We named our farm Kokoleka because that means chocolate in Hawaiian,” says Bob.
What’s growing: cacao varieties include criollo and trinitario.
Cacao
According to the International Cacao Organization, cacao, of the genus Theobroma, originated in South America. About 2000 years ago, cacao played a pivotal role in the religious and social lives of ancient Mayans, who made a spicy beverage from the ground seeds.
Chocolate is made from cacao, which is also called cocoa. After the pods are harvested, the seeds (beans) are removed and the white, slightly sweet pulp that surrounds the beans is left intact. The beans ferment for several days before they’re roasted, which turns the soft white pulp into brittle chaff. Through a process called winnowing, the chaff is removed. What remains is known as the nib, which can be used in cooking. To make chocolate, the nibs are put in a melanger — a granite stone grinder — for up to one day. The resulting chocolate liquor is tempered before it’s poured into molds.
Season: It takes three years for a cacao tree to grow from a seed and produce fruit. On Kauai, cacao can be grown year round.
“Kauai is the North Pole of cacao,” explains Bob. “They won’t grow much further north. In Central America and Africa, it’s 110 degrees Fahrenheit and the trees need shade. Here, they don’t need shade.”
What to look for
“If chocolate liquor is not tempered properly,” explains Bob, “it will taste OK but bars made from it won’t have snap and they’ll get marbling or a white coating.”
Storage
Chocolate keeps best between 65 and 70°F, away from direct sunlight, and protected from moisture.
Tip: Storing in the fridge or freezer will keep summertime heat from melting the chocolate and ruining the HYPERLINK “http://sweets.seriouseats.com/2010/03/how-to-temper-chocolate.html” temper (that whitish coating is the cocoa butter coming to the surface). Allow the chocolate to come to room temperature slowly to avoid condensation and the resulting sugar bloom.
Preparation
Chocolate bars are usually eaten straight from the wrapper, but they can also be used in baking. Chocolate chips, typically added to baked goods such as cookies, scones, bread pudding or cinnamon rolls, can be melted and drizzled over cookies, fruit or nuts.
Cacao powder is what makes baked goods chocolaty and can also be used in shakes, puddings and ice cream. Cacao nibs are bitter and often coated in chocolate, crushed and sprinkled onto cupcakes or added to cookies. They are savory and can add crunch to salads, sausage or pizza.
Health benefits
Dark chocolate contains a higher percentage of chocolate liquor, which gives it superfood status. It’s an excellent source of manganese, copper, iron, and magnesium, and a good source of fiber and phosphorus. Antioxidants called flavonols and theobromine provide additional benefits. Chocolate’s flavonols improve blood flow and protect against diseases associated with oxidative stress such as heart disease and cancer. Theobromine, a bitter alkaloid of the cacao plant, can reduce sleepiness, is a cough suppressant and can help reduce asthma symptoms.
Cacavo banana pudding
This chocolate pudding contains avocado and bananas, which make a healthy, rich and creamy treat. It’s avocado and apple banana season, so the recipe is an excellent use for extra fruit. It can be enjoyed as dessert or as a post workout snack. Serves 4.
4 ripe apple bananas
1 ripe avocado
1 tablespoon cacao (cocoa) powder
1 teaspoon vanilla
Place ingredients into a blender and process until smooth. If it’s too thick, thin with a little water or milk. Pour into bowls or cups and enjoy immediately.
• Marta Lane, a food writer on Kauai since 2010, offers farm to fork food tours and is the author of Tasting Kauai: Restaurants – From Food Trucks to Fine Dining, A Guide to Eating Well on the Garden Island. Info: TastingKauai.com
