About 40 people sit down to dinner as the sun sets in Hanalei. The farm-to-table meal, called FarmFishForage, is outside on a wide grassy lawn where birdcalls and trade winds evoke a tranquil mood. Nine guests and myself are sitting on benches at a wide wood table, which are made from reclaimed pallets. In all, four tables are set under a large white canopy that’s strung with twinkle lights.
Justin Smith, chef and owner of Kauai Ono, is inside his gleaming, stainless steel mobile kitchen, as the wait staff makes sure everyone is seated. We have no idea what we will be eating, but our anticipation is quenched with sips of wine brought from home.
Grinning visitors are in for the ride, as an edible adventure slowly spreads before them. For residents, the coconut wireless has gone crazy; they expect something delicious made with local ingredients. Smith doesn’t cook with wheat, flour or beans, or showcase anything that didn’t grow on Kauai. But it’s not about buzzwords like “local,” “gluten-free,” or “free-range,” he just sees edible opportunities everywhere.
“I believe in using what we have available,” Smith says. “Why a single banana is ever imported to this island blows my mind. My events are about being resourceful, changing the perspective of what can be done with what is right in front of us and utilizing things that grow by the roadside and often go wasted.”
After four years traveling through Latin America and Mexico, Smith attended culinary school in San Sebastián, a resort town on the northwest coast of Spain. Having studied chemistry at the University of San Diego, he was able to master molecular gastronomy techniques while cooking at Arzak, an award-winning restaurant owned by Juan Mari Arzak that’s famous for New Basque Cuisine.
“I spent nine months in his restaurant,” recalls Smith. “At the time, he was ranked third in the world.”
From Spain, Smith cooked in Costa Rica, Fiji and a ski house in Alta, Utah. He moved to Kauai in 2010 and started his farm-to-table dinner events last April.
This evening’s five-course dinner ($50 per person) includes a cube of organic, steamed taro root topped with steamed taro leaves and drizzled with coconut sauce; Kilauea salad greens with sesame ginger vinaigrette; brined and smoked walu (escolar) served over olive oil rubbed kale; breadfruit croquettes topped with braised local beef and a zesty caper sauce, and a flour-less chocolate torte with kumquat marmalade.
By the end of the meal, boisterous conversation punctuated by peals of laughter has transformed strangers into friends. Votive candles flicker in mason jars set on bare tabletops. A group stands up and sings happy birthday to Lisa, who is wearing a fragrant puakinikini lei.
“I never planned on doing really amazing food,” he says above the din of merriment. “It’s just food that is super clean and very simple.”
Kauai Ono is open Wednesday and Thursday. Info: 634-3244 and KauaiOno.com
• Marta Lane, a food writer on Kauai since 2010, offers farm to fork food tours and is the author of Tasting Kauai: Restaurants – From Food Trucks to Fine Dining, A Guide to Eating Well on the Garden Island. For more information, visit TastingKauai.com.
