ANAHOLA — Following more than 20 years of service with Mokihana Pest Control, Sandy DeFries is now seeing her dream come true. Based at the Anahola Marketplace along the bustling Kuhio Highway, the bright yellow DeFries Lunch Wagon is something
ANAHOLA — Following more than 20 years of service with Mokihana Pest Control, Sandy DeFries is now seeing her dream come true.
Based at the Anahola Marketplace along the bustling Kuhio Highway, the bright yellow DeFries Lunch Wagon is something Sandy DeFries always wanted to do, said Malia DeFries, one of the DeFries ‘ohana which satisfies daytime appetites in Anahola.
“Her mother had a business and Sandy has always wanted to continue what her mother started,” Malia said. “She got that opportunity after she retired from Mokihana Pest Control.”
Adrienne Ching, Sandy’s mother, had a unique eatery, Ching’s Delicatessen, which during the day was a delicatessen and saimin shop at night, located in Kapa‘a near the current Pono Market and Larry’s Music in the 1950s, Malia said.
“That place was always busy and she sold out a lot, mostly through the back door,” Malia said.
Adrienne operated that eatery for seven years before moving to Los Angeles, Calif. with her husband Henry. The move to the Mainland could not quash Adrienne’s culinary skills, the former Kaua‘i girl opening the same kind of eatery from Kapa‘a in Los Angeles.
“They were pretty good,” Malia said. “She ran the Kaua‘i shop for seven years before moving to the Mainland and after opening, ran that shop for 23 years in Los Angeles. That’s 30 years doing good food.”
That reputation is being carried over by Sandy who opened the bright yellow DeFries eatery just in time for the Memorial Day rush.
Since then, they’ve developed a regular following of workers and visitors who frequent the wagon, indulging in what Malia describes as “all local food.”
“Their roast pork is really good,” one customer noted. “But she makes a killer steamed fish and the DeFries chicken is really good, too.”
For dessert, there is the butter mochi and when combined with a cold drink, is enough for “Polynesian Paralysis” to set in.
Polynesian Paralysis is an affliction locals attribute to indulging in a really good plate lunch, creating a condition where a nap under a good shade tree is the only cure.
Malia said in addition to the plate lunch offerings, DeFries Lunch Wagon also serves up shave ice, smoothies and bubble drinks as well as the specials the ‘ohana creates.
Diners can enjoy the local menu from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Mondays through Wednesdays. Thursday hours are a little shorter, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Friday hours are from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. The yellow lunch wagon is closed on Saturdays and Sundays.
There is also a phone number, 645-6269, which customers can call for more information or call-aheads.
Malia is quick to point out the multi-generational influence of preparing good food, noting Sandy is the first generation of the DeFries Lunch Wagon ‘ohana, followed by herself as second generation, and Cheyanne DeFries, still a toddler, as the third generation.
“We all work here and learn from the master,” Malia said.
• Dennis Fujimoto, photographer and staff writer, can be reached at 245-3681 (ext. 253) or dfujimoto@ thegardenisland.com.
