KAPA‘A — What is more exciting than finding out high-end comfort food you romanticized from your past is coming to Kaua‘i? That it’s prepared in the same fashion, to the same delectable degree it used to be back in the day.
That was the pleasant surprise for this writer, who had “chicken skin” after her first bite of the truly-spicy, complex, authentic fare offered at Shivalik Indian Cuisine its opening weekend. The experience reminded me of a quaint restaurant in which I dined frequently with family while in Michigan — and with reason.
Turns out the chefs and former staff are from that exact restaurant, known as Shalimar. So the best aspects of a revered and well-remembered eatery that I had fondly remembered from my early-teen years were now on Kaua‘i.
Owner Naresh Chand brought the best of the best from the Midwest to these posh new digs, unrecognizably the former Lizard Lounge in the Waipouli Town Center.
Among those best include General Manager Bahadur Sing Thakur, formerly of the aforementioned Michigan restaurant, which was renowned for its ability to strike a gastronomical harmony of East-meets-happy-palate.
Upon finding out who was on board, I knew there was a high standard of cuisine already set.
And Shivalik certainly passed the muster with flying colors.
The restaurant’s opening-weekend buffet was jam-packed with diners, all of whom were unabashed in stacking their plates high with savory spiced potato samosas, soft, buttery naan (an aromatic flatbread) and rogan josh, a no-need-masticate lamb that’s been marinated in ginger-garlic paste and simmered with onions and tomatoes for hours, in the Kashmir tradition.
For Chand, bringing a bit of home to Kaua‘i has been realizing a dream. “We love this island,” Chand said. “The relaxing atmosphere, the hiking, the waterfalls, the creeks.”
A self-proclaimed “good eater,” Chand said he knows Indian food, and knows what he likes.
Originally from New Delhi, Chand said he was inspired to open a restaurant here that would epitomize his favorite dishes. Chand and his wife came up with the idea of bringing an Indian restaurant to Kaua‘i a couple of years ago, he said, when there wasn’t yet another one on-island.
Menu highlights include the seekh kabab, (ground lamb spiced and grilled on skewers) dal makhni (black lentils in onion, ginger and tomato herb sauce) and the tandoori murgh (chicken cooked in the tandoor with yogurt and various herbs). All of which rival bona fide, home-cooked Indian food.
Though the island recently has had the arrival of another Indian restaurant, the nearby Chutney’s, Shivalik General Manager Thakur said what sets this restaurant apart is its higher-end cuisine, coupled with authentic, shipped-in spices, and overall elegant ambiance.
The restaurant also uses fresh, local produce in its food as well, he said, and, of course, an authentic tandoor (clay oven).
“We’re fine-dining,” Thakur said, adding that having specialty chefs, such as Tandoori Chef Ashok Lal and Curry Chef Saurab Kunwar, help ensure a no-holds-barred dining experience.
And no-holds-barred it was indeed. The only complaint some had was that they were too full to keep eating the mouth-watering sampling of dishes.
Carl and Mari Rosetti, of Wailua, were pleasantly surprised and impressed with the food during the restaurant’s debut.
“The lamb (rogan josh) is incredible,” Carl Rosetti said.
Thrilled with the level of spice, his wife, Mari Rosetti, added, “the food is so flavorful — water has never tasted so good.”
Thakur suggested the Rosettis use the restaurant’s fresh mint, ginger and cilantro or tamarind dipping sauces to help balance the boldness of some of the appetizers, such as the bhaji, a softly-textured and deeply-fried onion with a bite-you-back spiciness.
Desserts are also a treat at Shivalik, and are uniquely Indian. Après-meal menu items not only feature Indian standards such as kheer (silky rice pudding with rose syrup, dried grapes and pistachios) but the doughy gulab jamun, which are similar to an exotic form of malasadas: Deep-fried milk dumplings immersed in a sweet, cardamom and rose-infused liquid.
Gulab jamun has been a favorite for his children, Chand said, and after trying it a long time ago at his children’s prompting, Chand quickly became a fan, he said.
“Lal makes very good gulab jamun,” Chand said of the tandoori chefs. “I don’t usually eat dessert, but my kids asked me to try it. It was so delicious. I couldn’t help myself but have another order.”
It was perhaps the gulab jamun that also prompted Chand to ask Thakur to hire Lal.
“I said (to Thakur), ‘Whatever it takes, hire this person,’” Chand said.
Shivalik Indian Cuisine is open seven days a week, 11:30 a.m. to3:30 p.m. for lunch and 5-9:30 p.m. for dinner. An all-you-can-eatbuffet for lunch is $15.95.
