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Kenney’s whole-animal breakdown is more than culinary skill

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Posted: Sunday, October 21, 2012 12:30 am

PUHI — Chef Ed Kenney and Chef David Caldiero of TOWN restaurants, utilized a Kaneshiro Farms whole hog for their presentation, “Pua‘a Snout-to-Tail,” before the Kaua‘i Community College culinary arts students and staff Thursday.

The three-hour presentation was done through the Hawai‘i Culinary Foundation and offered culinary students and invited guests to a live presentation peppered with samplings as well as being able to practice what was presented.

The visiting chefs, both business partners in the TOWN restaurant, offered instruction on utilizing the entire pig, touching on sustainability and cost benefits while speaking on why to use locally grown and produced.

“Here we are smack dab in the middle of the Pacific, the most isolated populated landmass on the planet,” Kenney said. “We are 92 percent dependent on imported food and 95 percent dependent on energy, which is generated with imported fossil fuels.”

Kenney said according to the Hawai‘i Department of Agriculture, if Hawai‘i replaced just 10 percent of foods it imports with locally grown and manufactured foods, it would generate approximately $94 million for farmers, an economy-wide impact of $188 million in sales, $47 million in earnings and $6 million in state taxes. It was estimated that the movement would generate 2,300 jobs.

“Buying and breaking whole carcasses directly from the farmer guarantees the best price to the farmer and enables them to continue to raise and bring animals to market,” Kenney said.

He noted that whole-animal butchery is a part of and a clear analogy of the modern food “movement.”

“A public that yearns for connection; a connection to where their food comes from and a connection to those that they eat with,” Kenney said. “As professional culinarians, and often times the only conduit between the producer and the eater, it is our responsibility to have a personal connection and intimate knowledge about the food we serve and the messages we transmit to those we feed.”

Kenney demonstrated that statement by talking about the origins of the Kaneshiro Farm hog, which was being broken down.

The farm in Oma‘o is nearly 100 years old, started by Val Kaneshiro’s husband’s grandfather.

“The farm retains approximately 100 breeding sows and brings nearly 2,000 pigs to market each year,” Kenney said while Val watched the proceedings with interest. “Kaneshiro pork can only be found on Kaua‘i.”

The commentary on history, encouragement toward utilizing locally produced and sustainability flowed through the presentation.

“Remember, our role is to learn to cut and maximize the entire carcass,” Kenney said. “Waste nothing!”

The Hawai‘i Culinary Education Foundation is a nonprofit corporation championing culinary education in Hawai‘i through its mission of providing Hawai‘i’s culinary students access to the best knowledge and exposure to cutting-edge techniques through a variety of programs with local, national and internationally-known chefs and food experts.

Visit the website www.

hawaiiculinaryfoundation.org for more information.

© 2015 Thegardenisland.com. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

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